Hot Springs, South Dakota, has a rich history dating back to the Native American tribes who considered the area sacred for its thermal springs. The Lakota Sioux, Cheyenne, and other tribes believed in the healing properties of the warm waters. In the late 19th century, the town developed as a resort destination, attracting visitors seeking the therapeutic benefits of the natural hot springs. The establishment of the Evans Plunge, one of the oldest indoor swimming facilities in the U.S., in 1890 further boosted Hot Springs’ popularity. During World War II, the town served as a training center for the military. Today, Hot Springs remains a charming small town known for its historic architecture, natural beauty, and the Mammoth Site, a renowned paleontological site showcasing the remains of prehistoric mammoths.

Established in 1890 over a natural hot spring, Evans Plunge is the oldest tourist attraction in the Black Hills. The natural spring-fed waters maintain an average of 87 degrees throughout the year with 5000 gallons of water per minute flowing into the pool.

Mammoth Site

The Mammoth Site is a fascinating archaeological and paleontological site in Hot Springs. It is essentially a sinkhole that trapped then preserved the remains of numerous mammoths from the Ice Age, making it one of the world’s most significant mammoth fossil sites.

In 1974 when a local landowner named George Hanson was in the process of preparing the land for a new housing development. While digging, he stumbled upon some large bones. The son of the worker who unearthed the bones wisely realized they might be something special. So, he contacted experts, and that’s when the real excitement began! Scientists have been digging up the site ever since , and it’s become a hot spot for researchers and visitors alike. It’s a real gem for anyone interested in paleontology and the prehistoric world.

Fall River Hot Air Balloon Festival

The Fall River Hot Air Balloon Festival has been held yearly since 2016. This relatively small but fun festival occurs in late August at the Hot Springs Municipal Airport and is currently run by the Hot Springs Chamber of Commerce. We got up before dawn on the first day and arrived to a spectacular morning for a balloon launch.

Wind Cave

Wind Cave National Park is about 10 miles north of Hot Springs. Discovered in 1881, Wind Cave is one of the longest and most complex caves in the world, known for its unique boxwork formations, a rare type of cave mineral formation. The cave’s name comes from the strong, constant wind that flows in and out of its entrance due to atmospheric pressure changes.

The cave is rich in geological and cultural significance, and it became a national park in 1903, making it the seventh national park in the United States. The cave system extends for miles beneath the surface, with intricate passageways and chambers. Visitors can explore the cave on guided tours, witnessing stunning formations and learning about its geological history.

Apart from the cave itself, Wind Cave National Park also features diverse landscapes, including prairies and forests, providing opportunities for hiking and wildlife viewing. Bison, elk, prairie dogs, and various bird species inhabit the park, creating a unique blend of underground wonders and above-ground natural beauty.

Park Review – Hidden Lake Campground and Resort

Rating: 1/2
Location:  Hot Springs, SD
Type: Commercial Park
Check-in/Check-out times: 12:00/11:00
Site Quality / Amenities: Gravel roads and pads. Each site have a fire ring and picnic table. Sites are very close together with just barely enough room to open the awning, only site 7 has extra space on the door side. Most sites share water with the site next to it. There are showers, a laundry, and a small store on site. Canoes and Kayaks can be rented from the office and fishing licenses are also available for catch and release fishing on the private lake.
Access: From US-385 take Badger Clark Rd. west to Evans St. then go north to the turnoff into the park. In 2023, US-385 through Hot Springs was under major reconstruction and there was a 10′ width imitation and a 40′ length limitation. It was uncomfortable to just drive a dually truck through time and I think the lanes were actually narrower than 10′ in places. The park provided an alternative route that went around the construction.
Staff: Very friendly and helpful.
Cellular/WiFi: The park is advertised as a place to disconnect and they do not provide WiFi or cable TV. Both Verizon and AT&T were fairly fast at about 30 Mbps download speeds.
Restaurants: Two Cows Creamery and Bistro – Great ice cream. They also serve food items like burgers but we did not try them. 1891 Steak House and Bistro – I had my 65’th birthday dinner here and had an excellent fillet steak. Anna had a bison steak. Both were very good!
Nearby parks: We didn’t look at any other parks while we were here.
What we liked: The Hot Springs Theater is available in town for an old time movie theater experience. There were Friday afternoon Farmer’s Markets in Centennial Park, although small we got some good produce at great prices. The park includes a nice walking trail around Hidden Lake. Nearby to Wind Cave National Park, Cold Brook Lake, Hot Brook Canyon for nice scenery and places to hike. Evans plunge, a nice spring fed mineral bath just down the road from the park was a good place to cool off on a hot day.
What we didn’t like: The elevator at Wind Cave was being repaired and we couldn’t go into the cave. We had a neighbor at one point who liked his music loud who also had a Harley Motorcycle he liked to let warm up for 20-30 minutes every morning. At one point I asked if he was going to ride it or just make noise and that didn’t go well. His response was that he figured everyone in the park liked listening to it!
Verdict: The town of Hot Springs is a unique old town to visit with plenty of things to do. We’d stay here again for a week or so.

Rating: 1/2
Location:  Rapid City, SD
Type: Commercial Park
Check-in/Check-out times: 1:00/11:00
Site Quality / Amenities: Depends on the site you book. We were in an executive site that had asphalt roads and sites along with a concrete patio. Executive sites have nice patio furniture and a fire ring.
Access: Easily accessible from Interstate 90 and Bypass 16 on the east side of Rapid City.
Staff: The staff was friendly although they needed more folks for the check-in rush.
Cellular/WiFi: Verizon was very fast – I had 5Guw most of the time and download speeds were typically about 366 Mbps with upload speeds of about 21.6 Mbps.
Restaurants: Jambonz Deux – Serves contemporary Louisiana cuisine that is actually pretty good for the area. On the Border – Mexican chain serving about as close to Tex-Mex as we could hope in South Dakota.
Nearby parks: We didn’t have time to explore any other RV parks in the area.
What we liked: The executive sites in the park are very nice, superb for a KOA but they are pricey. There are lots of places to shop in Rapid City including two Walmarts and a Sam’s Club.
What we didn’t like: Much of the KOA was very similar to others, a bit too packed in and not particularly great. Rapid City had much more to offer as far as stores and restaurants than Spearfish but it is more crowded, felt a bit less safe and was not as intimate. It’s still a relatively small town but we prefer the Spearfish vibe a bit more.
Verdict: We could see staying here again for maybe a week but if we wanted to be in the area for longer we’d prefer Spearfish.

The town itself embodies a sense of authenticity and simplicity. With a handful of local businesses and accommodations, Interior offers a down-to-earth experience that contrasts with the hustle and bustle of larger towns and cities. This makes it a peaceful retreat for travelers seeking to disconnect from the chaos of modern life and connect with the tranquility of the great outdoors.

Badlands National Park

Badlands National Park is a mesmerizing natural wonder located in southwestern South Dakota. It’s a place of striking beauty and rugged landscapes, characterized by its unique rock formations, deep canyons, and otherworldly terrain. It’s easy to imagine how early visitors came to call this the badlands. Can you imagine travelling through the area on horseback or via covered wagon?

The park’s iconic terrain is the result of millions of years of erosion, which has exposed layers of sedimentary rock in a range of vibrant colors, from deep reds to pale yellows. These formations create a stunning visual spectacle that changes with the shifting sunlight, making the Badlands a paradise for photographers, hikers, and nature enthusiasts.

Badlands National Park offers an array of outdoor activities. Visitors can explore a network of hiking trails that wind through the canyons and hills, providing opportunities to witness the unique geology up close and to observe the park’s diverse flora and fauna. Wildlife such as bison, bighorn sheep, pronghorn, and coyotes roam the area, offering wildlife enthusiasts a chance to glimpse these incredible creatures in their natural habitat.

The park’s landscape also holds significant paleontological value. Fossilized remains of ancient mammals like rhinoceroses, horses, and other creatures have been discovered in the sedimentary layers, providing insight into the prehistoric world. The visitor center offers educational exhibits on the park’s geology, ecology, and paleontology, making it an excellent starting point for exploring the area.

Whether you’re admiring the sunrise or sunset over the Badlands, hiking along the trails, or taking in the breathtaking vistas from the overlooks, Badlands National Park is a place of unparalleled beauty that captivates and inspires all who visit. It’s truly a testament to the raw power of nature and the wonders that can be discovered within its rugged embrace.

Minuteman Missile Museum / Silo

Minuteman missiles are intercontinental ballistic missiles (ICBMs) that form a crucial component of the United States’ nuclear deterrence strategy. Named after the Revolutionary War militia who were ready to mobilize at a minute’s notice, Minuteman missiles are designed to be launched rapidly and deliver nuclear warheads over great distances.

The Minuteman series of missiles was first developed during the Cold War as a response to the need for a reliable and quickly deployable nuclear deterrent. The initial Minuteman I version became operational in the early 1960s, followed by the Minuteman II in the mid-1960s, and then the Minuteman III in the 1970s. The Minuteman III, which is the version currently in service, is a land-based, solid-fueled missile capable of delivering multiple nuclear warheads to different targets.

These missiles are housed in underground launch silos scattered across the United States, primarily in the northern Great Plains. The silos are hardened and designed to withstand various forms of attack. The concept behind the Minuteman missiles is to ensure that the United States maintains a credible and flexible nuclear deterrent that can be launched quickly if necessary, thus deterring potential adversaries from launching a nuclear attack.

While the Minuteman missile system represents a sobering aspect of global security, it also reflects the complex dynamics of international relations and the ongoing efforts to prevent large-scale conflicts through the principle of mutually assured destruction (MAD).

Due to arms reduction treaties in the 1990’s most of the Minuteman sites have been decommissioned and destroyed. The Minuteman Missile National Historic Site Visitor Center is about 21 miles east of the town of Wall, SD and plays an essential role in preserving the history of the Cold War and educating the public about the complexities of nuclear arms and deterrence. It’s a place that offers insight into the past while encouraging reflection on the importance of global security and diplomacy. Whether you’re interested in history, technology, or geopolitics, a visit to the visitor center provides a thought-provoking and educational experience.

The story above was one of several near “accidents” in the history of nuclear arms. This one was only 40 years ago and I’m sure there have been several more since then. Had it not been for Lt. Col. Petrov sensing something wasn’t right and having the courage to ignore his orders to report any alarms, we all might not be here today. His decision ended his military career but likely saved humanity.

Wall

Wall, South Dakota, is a small town with a big reputation, thanks in large part to its proximity to the iconic Badlands National Park and the famous Wall Drug Store. This charming town has carved out a niche for itself as a popular stop for travelers.

One of Wall’s most recognizable landmarks is Wall Drug Store. What began as a small pharmacy in 1931 has grown into a sprawling complex that includes shops, restaurants, galleries, and even a museum. The store is known for its unique advertising campaign that lured visitors with promises of free ice water and 5-cent coffee. Today, it remains a quirky and fun destination where you can grab a bite to eat, shop for souvenirs, and experience the nostalgia of days gone by. Coffee is still 5-cents if you have it on site in one of their cups, but it’s 97-cents if you want it in a to go cup!

Beyond its tourist attractions, Wall maintains the warmth of a tight-knit community. It’s a place where you can get a sense of small-town America, complete with local events, friendly faces, and a laid-back atmosphere. So, whether you’re passing through on a road trip, visiting the Badlands, or just looking for a unique stop along the way, Wall, South Dakota, offers a blend of history, nature, and quirky charm that’s hard to forget.

Park Review – Badlands / White River KOA Holiday

Rating: 
Location:  Interior, ND
Type: Commercial Park
Check-in/Check-out times: 1:00/11:00
Site Quality / Amenities: Roads and pads are gravel as are most patios. We opted for a deluxe site with a concrete patio and with “fancy” patio furniture. The black refrigerator size piece of metal is a fire pit. The park has a small pool, games and a playground.
Access: The park is south of Interior, SD and south of the Badlands National Park.
Staff: Staff were all friendly and they provide an escort to your site as well as daily trash pickup.
Cellular/WiFi: Although the park web site indicates cellular service was sparse to non-existent in the park, we found that only to be true of AT&T. For Verizon we actually had some of the fastest service we’ve ever had – at one time I got 270 Mbps downloads and 7 Mbps uploads on 4G.
Restaurants: There aren’t many restaurants in the area but we heard that the gas station in Interior served pretty good food although we didn’t try it. We did eat at Salty Steer in Wall when we found Wall Drug to crowded. The burgers there were actually very good and the restaurant was much less crowded.
Nearby parks: Cedar Pass Campground in the national park was nice for a couple of days but it was electric only, no sewer and sites were pull-outs along the road. Many would have been too short for us. Water was available but could be far from your site and was not for hookup during a stay. We heard that visitors enjoy the sunrise/sunsets and that wildlife goes through the park. Badlands Motel and Campground in Interior looked similar in quality to the KOA without some of the “Holiday” features.
What we liked: Shade trees but we were able to receive satellite on site 20. Likely better choices for sites would be the longer sites 140-149.
What we didn’t like: Spacing between the sites is pretty close and clearance along the roads can get very tight. Likely because of the rainfall in 2023, the mosquitoes and flies were really bad. They would bite not only in the evenings but in the heat of the day.
Verdict: The park was a bit above average for KOA’s and would be a good place to stay for a visit to the Badlands. We stayed for a week but if we came here again 3 or 4 days would be plenty.

When South Dakota became a state in 1889, Pierre was chosen as the state capital. This decision was influenced by Pierre’s central location within the state and its accessibility via the Missouri River. As the capital of South Dakota, Pierre saw significant growth in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Government buildings, schools, and infrastructure were established to support the state government and the growing population. Agriculture, especially wheat farming, played a significant role in the economy of the region.

We spent a few hours one day touring the capitol building. Completed in 1910, the Capitol stands as an architectural marvel and a symbol of South Dakota’s history and government. Designed by architect George W. Rapp, the building is characterized by its Neoclassical style, featuring impressive columns, grand staircases, and a prominent central dome. The exterior is made of South Dakota limestone, giving the building a solid and enduring appearance. The Capitol’s design draws inspiration from classical Greek and Roman architecture, reflecting the ideals of democracy and civic duty. Inside, the Capitol is equally impressive, with intricately decorated chambers, murals, and sculptures that depict South Dakota’s history, culture, and natural beauty. The Capitol houses the offices of the governor (we spent quite a while there talking to Governor Noem’s Administrative Assistant learning about the Governor and the state), lieutenant governor, and various state agencies, making it the administrative center of South Dakota’s government. It’s open to the public for tours, allowing visitors to explore the building’s history, architecture, and the significance of its various elements.

The Verendrye claim of the Pierre, South Dakota area for France is a fascinating historical episode that harkens back to the era of exploration and territorial expansion. The Verendrye family, led by Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, sieur de La Vérendrye, were French-Canadian explorers who ventured into the vast interior of North America during the 18th century.

In the mid-1700s, the Verendryes and their expedition party made their way to the present-day Pierre area along the Missouri River. In 1743, they erected a lead plate inscribed with a claim to the land on behalf of France, asserting French sovereignty over the region. This claim was a part of France’s broader efforts to assert control and lay claim to territories in North America.

While the Verendrye claim marked a symbolic gesture of French exploration and territorial ambitions, it’s important to note that the area eventually came under Spanish control as a result of treaties and shifting alliances. Spain, in turn, transferred control to the United States as part of the Louisiana Purchase in 1803.

The Verendrye claim serves as a reminder of the complex and interconnected history of colonial powers vying for dominance in the New World. It’s a testament to the courage and determination of explorers who ventured into uncharted territories, leaving behind traces of their journeys that continue to capture the imagination of those interested in the history of the American West.

The first school in Pierre was established in the late 19th century, during a time when the town was still evolving. The school began in a modest structure, reflective of the era’s frontier conditions. This one room 14′ x 20′ structure served 18 students in 1881 for several months until the public school opened in October if that same year. Over the years, as Pierre grew and prospered, so did its educational facilities. The early one-room schoolhouses eventually gave way to more modern and comprehensive educational institutions.

We enjoyed going to the museum and learning about the history of the South Dakota National Guard. As part of the United States National Guard, it plays a dual role, serving both the state and the nation.

In times of need, whether it’s a natural disaster, civil unrest, or other emergencies, the South Dakota National Guard can be called upon by the governor to provide assistance and support within the state’s borders. This includes tasks like disaster relief, search and rescue, and maintaining order during emergencies.

On the national level, the South Dakota National Guard can be federalized and called into active duty by the President of the United States. In this capacity, guard units from South Dakota may be deployed overseas as part of larger military operations. Their training and readiness ensure that they can seamlessly transition from their civilian lives to military service when required.

The South Dakota National Guard has a long history of service, participating in various conflicts and missions throughout the years. It’s a crucial part of the state’s security infrastructure and embodies the dedication of citizen-soldiers who are willing to step up and serve their community and country when called upon.

Ft. Pierre

Fort Pierre, South Dakota, is a town rich in history and character. Situated along the Missouri River and just across from its sister city, Pierre, Fort Pierre has its own distinct charm. It’s often referred to as one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the Dakotas, with a history that dates back to the fur trading days of the early 19th century.

The town takes its name from Fort Pierre Chouteau, a trading post established by the American Fur Company in 1832. This trading post played a significant role in the fur trade industry, connecting Native American trappers and traders with European merchants. The old trading post building still stands as a historic site and a testament to the town’s past.

Today, Fort Pierre maintains its historic atmosphere while offering modern amenities and a close-knit community. Visitors can explore the area’s history through various museums, galleries, and landmarks. The Casey Tibbs South Dakota Rodeo Center is a notable attraction, celebrating the state’s rich rodeo heritage. The nearby Oahe Dam and Lake Oahe offer outdoor enthusiasts opportunities for boating, fishing, and relaxation against the backdrop of the stunning Missouri River.

Overall, Fort Pierre encapsulates the spirit of the American West with its history, natural beauty, and friendly community. It’s a place where the past and present coexist, inviting visitors to discover its unique blend of heritage and hospitality. During the time we were visiting, the yearly Fort Pierre Trader Days was in progress and we got to eat some pretty good BBQ as well as spend some time enjoying Turkey Races and Mud Wrestling.

La Framboise Island

La Framboise Island is a historically significant location in the vicinity of Fort Pierre, South Dakota. The island is named after Joseph La Framboise, a fur trader and interpreter of French and Lakota descent who played a notable role in the fur trade during the early 19th century.

Joseph La Framboise was well-connected within both Native American and European communities, which allowed him to serve as a valuable intermediary in trade negotiations. He established a trading post on the island in the early 1830s, taking advantage of its strategic location at the confluence of the Bad River and the Missouri River. This post facilitated the exchange of goods between fur traders and the Lakota Sioux.

The island served as a hub for fur trading activities and cultural interactions during a time when the fur trade was a significant economic and cultural force in the region. La Framboise’s trading post became a crucial link between the Native American inhabitants and European fur traders, contributing to the exchange of goods and ideas.

While the island’s historical structures may no longer be standing, the legacy of La Framboise and the important role he played in the fur trade era is remembered through local history, museums, and educational programs. La Framboise Island stands as a reminder of the complex interactions and partnerships that shaped the history of the American West. Today, the island is a state nature area with miles of hiking trails.

Lewis and Clark

Throughout its history, Pierre has been influenced by the natural beauty of the Missouri River, the Native American presence, the development of the West, and the role it plays as the seat of South Dakota’s government. Its history is a reflection of the broader narrative of the American frontier and the ongoing growth and development of the region.

Lewis and Clark’s visit to Fort Pierre is a fascinating part of their historic expedition. In the winter of 1804-1805, the Corps of Discovery, led by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark, established a winter camp near the confluence of the Bad River and the Missouri River in what is now modern-day Fort Pierre, South Dakota. This camp allowed them to rest and prepare for their further explorations westward.

During their time at Fort Pierre, Lewis and Clark had interactions with the Lakota Sioux tribe, which was significant in terms of both diplomacy and cultural exchange. The explorers traded with the Lakota for essential supplies and learned about the local customs and way of life. This interaction with the Lakota added to the explorers’ understanding of the vast and diverse land they were traversing.

While at Fort Pierre, the Corps of Discovery faced challenges such as harsh winter conditions, scarcity of food, and cultural differences with the Lakota. However, their time at the camp also provided an opportunity for scientific observations and documentation of the local flora, fauna, and geography.

Today, visitors to Fort Pierre can learn about Lewis and Clark’s visit through historical markers, museums, and sites that commemorate their expedition. The area serves as a connection to the past, offering insights into the challenges and achievements of this remarkable journey that played a pivotal role in shaping the exploration and expansion of the United States.

Park Review – River View RV Park

Rating: +
Location:  Pierre, SD
Type: Commercial Park
Check-in/Check-out times: 12:00/12:00
Site Quality / Amenities: Roads and pads are all dirt/gravel. Each site has a picnic table. Restrooms, laundry, small store available in the office. Premium sites have good views of the Missouri River, Pierre and Fort Pierre. Sites 50 to 53 are a bit longer than the rest of the sites.
Access: From US-83 in Ft. Pierre take 2nd Ave to Verendry Dr. The park is a good climb up from US-83 and the road is somewhat rough. All but the last 100′ or so is paved. Be sure to take the Truck Bypass to US-14 when going through Pierre as there is a 11′ 3″ low bridge when US 14 goes through Pierre.
Staff: This is a family run business. When we arrived no one was there to check us in and the owner’s voice mail was full so we just went to the site we originally booked and set up. We later met the owner, Lila and she was very nice. Other reviews really gave her complements for being a great host as well.
Cellular/WiFi: Cellular speeds were good at at 20+Mbps download and upload. The park had WiFi but we dd not use it.
Restaurants: Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant – We went there the day we arrived so we didn’t have to cook. The food was OK but rather bland for those of us used to Tex-Mex. Big Tom’s Diner – Had good hamburgers but based on the name we expected a larger place. It was actually an old Subway Sandwich Restaurant and was very small.
Nearby parks: We didn’t look closely at other parks. Most either do not have sewer connections or do not have reservations ahead of time.
What we liked: Nice family run park with great views of Ft. Pierre and Pierre below.
What we didn’t like: The park is all gravel and somewhat of a parking lot. They have added trees but it will be several years before they will provide any shade.
Verdict: Good place to camp in the Pierre area for up to a week.

Crazy Horse Memorial

When we visited the area in 2021, we didn’t go to the Crazy Horse Memorial. This trip, we decided to have a closer look. While the entire project including the museum seemed to be a work in progress, we were still glad we went there. Unlike many of the museums we have been to before, this one has more of the perspective of the Indians than of the settlers. That helped to explain some of the mistrust of the Indians and our government even today. Since 2021, they have been working on the outreached hand of the memorial. Progress is somewhat slow because all of the work is funded by visitors and private sources. Although government funding has been offered, they will not accept it. The Crazy Horse Memorial is the world’s largest Mountain Carving in progress to date.

Custer State Park

Custer State Park, located in the southern region of the Black Hills, covers an area of over 71,000 acres of varied terrain, including rolling prairie grasslands and rugged mountains. There are historic lodges and cabins with modern conveniences as well as several campgrounds for stays within the park. The park is known for its abundant wildlife, including donkeys, pronghorns, elk, and bison along with some fantastic scenic drives.

Mount Rushmore

Of course, any trip to this area wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Mount Rushmore! We picked a nice morning to visit followed by a trip down Iron Mountain Rd. Iron Mountain includes three tunnels each of which has a view of Mount Rushmore from the tunnel. The tunnels on this road are wide enough to be navigated with a large vehicle like a dually truck but the road itself has length restrictions. I think small RV’s might be OK but do your research before attempting this. Iron Mountain Rd. also includes three unique wooden “pigtail” bridges. This is a fun drive and we were happy to do it for the second time.

Needles Highway

Needles highway is a must see with beautiful needle like granite formations and narrow tunnels. Of the tunnels, the Needles Eye Tunnel is the narrowest of the three at about 8′ 4″ wide although some information says the Needles Eye tunnel is only 8′ wide. We personally saw a single rear wheel Ford F-250 go through the tunnel with the mirrors pulled in. A dually *should* be able to go through with mirrors pulled in as ours is about 8′ 0″ wide that way but I wouldn’t try it myself. I did see a YouTube video of a Dodge dually truck going through the tunnel but I just wouldn’t take the chance. We rented a convertible Mustang at the Mount Rushmore KOA for this day trip. Height is also a concern as the lowest tunnel is only 9’ 8” high.

Sylvan Lake

Summer or fall, Sylvan Lake is another must see while in the area. Not only is the lake gorgeous but there is a fairly short trail around it with great views along the way. Much of the trail except for the back side of the lake is easy. At the back of the lake the trail traverses the rocks in places and can be a bit more moderate. If you want something more challenging, a trail to the top of Black Elk Peak can be accessed from the lake area.

Park Review – Rafter J Bar Ranch RV Resort

Rating: 
Location:  Hill City, SD
Type: Commercial Park
Check-in/Check-out times: 11:30AM/11:00AM
Site Quality / Amenities: Road and sites are gravel and both are well maintained by the park. Most sites are full hookup except for a few sites in the Main Camp area. The remaining full hookup sites are either 30A or 50/30A depending on the site. Sites have a picnic table and fire ring and the deluxe sites have a concrete patio, picnic table and additional chairs. Most sites are plenty long for a big rig. Quite a few cabins are available for folks that do not have a camper. There is a heated pool/hot tub as well as a playground plus basketball and volleyball courts. There is also access to the 110 mile long George S. Mickelson Burlington Northern Bike / Hike trail adjacent to the park. Laundry facilities, restrooms and showers are also located throughout the park.
Access: The park is just off US 16 / US 385 a few miles south of Hill City, SD. For sites in the Line Camp, The Island, or the Ranch Camp areas it’s probably best to enter the park from the North Entrance so you don’t have to turn around within the park.
Staff:
Cellular/WiFi: There is no WiFi at the campsites but it is available in the office area. We did not use the WiFi. Verizon was 4-6 Mbps download and about 8 Mbps upload using our amplifier. Without amplification, download speeds were about 21 Mbps download but upload speeds were unusable at 0.01 Mbps. AT&T speeds were slower than Verizon.
Restaurants: Alpine Inn, Hill City – The restaurant at the Inn was recommended for steaks by some folks we met in Elephant Butte. For the price the food was good but not outstanding. 1885 Steakhouse and Saloon, Hill City  – This is a new restaurant in Hill City, located in the oldest commercial hand-hewn log building in continuous use in South Dakota. A bit more expensive than the Alpine Inn but with Great steaks.
Nearby parks: We didn’t look closely at any of the other parks. Some of the parks south of Hill City on US-385 might be OK and there are some nearby forest service campgrounds that are probably good but it’s hard to beat J-Bar Ranch except for the price.
What we liked: We stayed in site 161 in the Ranch Camp area which was an extremely long deluxe site with a great view of St. Elmo and Black Elk peaks. Close to all the major nearby attractions including Hill City, Keystone, and Custer as well as Mount Rushmore, the Crazy Horse Monument, Needles Highway, and Custer State Park to name a few. There are three tunnels on the Needles Highway with the narrowest being 8′ wide. Single rear wheel trucks should be able to do the needles highway with mirrors pulled in for the tunnels but a dually is too wide. Iron Mountain Rd. south of Mount Rushmore has tunnels as well but all are 10′ wide or more and are dually capable. Neither road is suitable for larger vehicles or longer trailers so do your planning if you are camping in or near the Custer State Park.
What we didn’t like: This park is fairly expensive.
Verdict: After five years on the road, this is one of the best places we have camped – it’s certainly the best commercial park we have stayed at. It’s more like a state or federal park than a commercial park with lots of space between sites and great views. We definitely recommend Rafter-J and we will likely return in the future.

Mount Rushmore

In 1923 Doane Robinson proposed carving Old West heroes in the needles of Cathedral Spires, some of the same ones seen in the pictures along the Needles Highway below. Robinson approached sculptor Gutzon Borglum about the project. Borglum shot down the idea of Old West heroes and instead wanted to place as close to heaven as possible the words of our leaders and their faces, to show posterity what manner of men they were. He felt that a monument’s dimensions should be determined by the importance to civilization of the events commemorated and he also wanted the monument to endure until the wind and rain alone would wear them down.

In 1925 Federal and state legislation authorized the carving of the memorial and fundraising begins. In 1927 President Calvin Coolidge dedicates the memorial and Borglum begins carving. 90% of the work removing stone from the mountain was done with dynamite with tools being used to finish the sculpture. This work was done by miners, farmers, and others with Borglum supervising the work. In 1941, Gutzon Borglum died and his son Lincoln oversaw completion of the work that same year. The original goal was to complete each statue down to the waist of each president but due to the untimely death of Gutzon, work was completed short of that goal.

Custer State Park

When we were doing our original planning for visiting the area we mostly focused on Mount Rushmore, Custer and Hill City. We really didn’t know much about Custer State Park until a friend of a friend mentioned it. Wow! Somehow we almost missed one of the best destinations in the area. Some of the can’t miss areas include the Needles Highway, the Wildlife Loop and Iron Mountain Road (which is technically outside the park). For Needles Highway, be careful is you have a large vehicle! The Needles Eye tunnel is only 8 feet wide which is about the same width as our dually pickup.

Custer State Park includes both granite peaks and rolling plains along with some gorgeous lakes fed by clear mountain water. We thought Sylvan Lake was the most beautiful. Encompassing 71,000 acres in the Black Hills, Custer State Park is home to abundant wildlife and adventure; camping, hiking, biking, swimming, fishing, or relaxing, there’s something there for everyone.

Buffalo (bison), elk, and other animals can be found throughout the park. The bison heard of over 1300 head roams the park throughout most of the year but in September an annual roundup is held and the female and their young are herded into a large corral on the southern end of the park. There they are sorted, checked and tested for disease. Some are auctioned off to manage the size of the herd based on the forage available in the park.

Note: The term “buffalo” may be considered a misnomer for this animal, as it is only distantly related to either of the two “true buffalo”, the Asian water buffalo and the African buffalo. However, “bison” is a Greek word meaning ox-like animal, while “buffalo” originated with the French fur trappers who called these massive beasts bœufs, meaning ox or bullock – so both names, “bison” and “buffalo,” have a similar meaning. In reference to this animal, the term “buffalo,” which dates to 1635, has a much longer history than the term “bison,” which was first recorded in 1774.

Hill City

Hill City is a small town about 15 miles northwest of Mount Rushmore that has numerous restaurants, shops, grocery stores, wineries and gas stations. It is the closest town on the west side of Rushmore and is a good place to visit when you need a break from outdoor activities.

In 1876, Hill City was the first settlement established in conjunction with the initial discovery of Black Hills gold in French Creek, just 13 miles south of where Hill City sits today. Miners came from far and wide to prospect in and around this small mountain town, now referred to as “The Heart of the Hills.” Although the first settlement in the county, it was the second community to develop in the greater Black Hills area, springing up shortly after the town of Custer.

After the bulk of gold prospecting relocated to the Northern Hills, Hill City reached a state of near abandonment by settlers before tin and the railroad drew the pioneers back in. From the mid-1880s to the turn of the century, the town revived and thrived on the discovery of tin, a malleable and silvery-white metal pulled from the rock in the Hills around the town. However, Hill City’s “tin age” was short-lived. When the tin frenzy subsided, the industrial railroad took over and dominated the first half of the emerging century. By the late 1950s, the Black Hills Central Railroad introduced the first passenger steam train on the line, commonly referred to today as the “1880 Train.”

In recent history, the Hill City community has continued to evolve as an archeological, paleontological, and geological hub for Black Hills exploration and discovery. The most complete Tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton in paleontological history was discovered in the Hill City area and named “Sue” after the paleontologist who unearthed her.

1880 Train

The 1880 train is a tourist attraction located in Hill City. The train travels several times daily between Hill City and Keystone for a distance of about 20 miles and takes about an hour each way. Not only is it fun to travel by a steam powered train but you’ll see some gorgeous scenery along the way as well as learn a bit about the history of the area.

Iron Mountain Road

Similar to Needles Highway (although the tunnels are wider on Iron Mountain Road) the area includes numerous granite rock formations and spectacular views. Iron Mountain Road is between Mount Rushmore and the northern edge of Custer State Park.

Two of the three tunnels along Iron Mountain Road have views of Mount Rushmore from the tunnel which is a great opportunity for a good picture. One of the most interesting features of this route are the three pigtail bridges. A pigtail or spiral bridge is a road bridge which loops over its own road, allowing the road to climb rapidly. This is useful in steep terrain, or where the approach road to a bridge would terminate too far from the bridge’s end. The shape of the bridge forms a helix, not a spiral. 

Cecil Gideon designed the bridges in 1932 when many felt they could not be built. Riding on Horseback from his home near the Game Lodge in Custer State Park, Gideon and Senator Norbeck spent long hours laying out the Iron Mountain Road including the tunnels that frame Mount Rushmore and the pigtail bridges.

Custer

After Hill City, Custer is the next nearest town to Mount Rushmore on the west side. Today the town is home to numerous restaurants and shops as well as several museums that tell the story of early life in the area.

Although there were French fur trappers and traders in the Custer area by 1796, there was no town of Custer until August 10, 1875. On that date General George Crook persuaded the miners illegally in the area to leave until the Black Hills became opened to white settlement. Crook allowed the assembled miners to lay out and name a town and allowed seven men to remain in the area to protect their mining claims. Veterans of the Civil War who had served in the Union Army suggested the name of Custer to honor the general who had made a reputation for himself.

The exodus of miners in August of 1875 was short-lived. Many of them returned to the area before it was officially opened to settlement by the government. They had been lured to the area by reports from the 1874 expedition to the Black Hills and Custer’s report of the finding of gold on French Creek. Custer was followed within four months by the Collins-Witcher-Gordon party of pioneers who settled near Custer’s former “permanent” camp. The Gordon Stockade was built by that party and it was the magnet that drew the miners to the area in 1875. The Gordon party was evicted from their stockade in April of 1875.

Park Review – Mount Rushmore KOA Resort at Palmer Gulch

Rating: 
Site Quality / Amenities: The sites are gravel, many are full hookup with 50A service. We had a deluxe patio site so in addition to having a patio we had a table with chairs, a grill, a swing and a fire pit. We were on an end site so we had a bit of extra room although we were near the office and there was a lot of traffic during the day. This is a KOA Resort and as such it had numerous amenities. Unfortunately for us, after Labor Day many of them close down.
Type: Commercial
Access: On SD244 about 3 miles from US385 and about 6 miles from Mount Rushmore. It’s a bit off the beaten path but roads are good and grades along the roads although steep at times are fairly short.
Staff: All staff we encountered were friendly and helpful; offering tips for the local area. Given that the staff was beginning to leave since our last day here is the end of their season, the ones still there were working long hours. Because of that, we were surprised how energetic and cheerful they were.
Cellular/Wi-Fi: I do not believe the park had Wi-Fi and Verizon was almost non-existent – working at times and not at others. Verizon data was very unreliable. AT&T worked decently although it was prone to be intermittent. Speeds were slow.
Restaurants: Bumpin Buffalo Bar and Grill, Hill City – Standard bar and grill fare, the food was good. Alpine Inn, Hill City – We did not get to eat there but it was recommended for steaks by some folks we met in Elephant Butte. Powder House Restaurant, Keystone – Great steaks. Black Hills Burger and Bun, Custer – Great burgers recommended by a friend.
Nearby parks: Crooked Creek Resort – Pretty nice park but it would likely be a bit tight for us to navigate and many sites would be too short. Crooked Creek is definitely not a resort like the KOA is. Rafter J Bar Ranch – At the junction of US385 and SD244, J Bar Ranch would be a good choice for us. It is less of a Resort but had all the amenities we would need whereas the KOA would be better for folks with kids. Sites were pretty large and most were clear of trees so satellite should be no problem. It closed about a week before the end of September.
What we liked: Friendly staff. Many resort activities during the summer season (most close after Labor Day). Convenient to Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park, Custer, the Crazy Horse memorial and Hill City.
What we didn’t like: Our site was at the front of the park and it tended to be a bit busier there with people checking in and out. The sites are short for big rigs forcing everyone to park on the grass. This created a situation where the roads near the sites were crowded and difficult to navigate. Most of the resort amenities including the main restaurant were closed after Labor Day.
Verdict: If we come to the area again, we’ll shoot for Rafter J Bar Ranch first and the KOA second. Families with kids would be happier with the KOA due to many kids activities. If you come after labor day, expect many amenities, restaurants, and other places to be closed for the season. However, that’s when the gorgeous fall colors are present and things are less crowded.

Even though Spearfish is just over 10,000 people, it’s likely about the 11th largest city in South Dakota. We liked that it still had access to good medical facilities (something we look for more often as we get older) as well as a Walmart, Tractor Supply and a good hardware store. After feeling like we have been in the middle of nowhere for quite a while, all these were important to us to get stocked back up.

Spearfish Canyon

Within the Black Hills National Forest, Spearfish canyon extends for about 14 miles starting just south of the town of Spearfish and is a popular destination during the fall for people to view the fall colors. We drove through the canyon on a clear, warm day and even though the fall colors had not yet fully arrived, it was still quite colorful. Hiking to Spearfish Falls and Roughlock Falls was a little over a mile each and it was steep getting to the canyon floor to see the beautiful falls but so worth it. So glad the smoke from all the wildfires out west have not followed us here to Spearfish.

DC Booth Fish Hatchery

When we first heard that the DC Booth Fish Hatchery was one of the best museums in the area we were a bit skeptical. After visiting, we agree with the people who recommended it. Not only were the grounds beautiful but it was interesting finding out how they harvested trout eggs from Lake Yellowstone and not only brought them here but also how they shipped them all across the country to develop Trout for food as well as for recreational fishing.

Deadwood

We spent a few hours walking around the old mining town of Deadwood on a beautiful fall day. The likes of Wild Bill Hickock and Calamity Jane visited these same streets – in fact Wild Bill was killed in a bar in the lower Main Street area. Today there are mostly small hotels, bars and casinos along the street along with the standard tourist stops for t-shirts and curios.

Sturgis

We spent a couple of hours one day driving around Sturgis and meeting up with friends from Texas who also happened to be in the area. Based on pictures we had seen of the annual rally, we thought Sturgis might be a bit rougher looking but it wasn’t unlike many other small towns in this area with the exception of some very large saloons and bars. We found out that many of these large venues are only open for the rally and close the rest of the year. It’s amazing they can make enough money in just a couple of weeks to keep these places in business.

Park Review – Elkhorn Ridge RV Resort

Rating: 1/2
Site Quality / Amenities: The roads in the park are asphalt and the sites are concrete. There is a picnic table at each site but the only fire pits are community. There are two different shower houses, a guest laundry, onsite store and gift shop, swimming pool and hot tubs, basketball, tennis, and pickleball courts. The resort also has cabins for those without an RV.
Type: Commercial
Access: Easy access from exit 17, just south of Interstate 90.
Staff: Staff were friendly and helpful but other than checking in we didn’t really have any interaction with them.
Cellular/Wi-Fi: Verizon was very fast at 106 Mbps down and 18 Mbps up. AT&T was about 1/2 the download speed with similar upload speeds which is still fast. The park had Wi-Fi but we did not use it.
Restaurants: Steerfish Steak and Smoke – We both got steaks but Anna got their Steak Troubadour which was topped with shrimp and a parmesan cream sauce and it was very good. Green Bean Coffeehouse – Good coffee and sweets. They also donate part of their profits to veterans. Latchstring Restaurant – In Savoy (along the Spearfish Canyon byway) I got a huge burger and Anna had Trout. Both meals were very good. Leone’s Creamery – Believed by many to be the best ice cream in South Dakota – Yum! Cheyenne Crossing – Busy place with great food at the south end of Spearfish Canyon. You must try the Indian Taco (get the small one unless you have a really big appetite) and don’t miss the desserts. They have great breakfast too.
Nearby parks: There are several parks nearby that looked good but we did not drive through them.
What we liked: Long pull through sites with lots of room between other sites. Nice store for any necessities during your stay. Clean and well kept with numerous amenities.
What we didn’t like: No fire pits at each site.
Verdict: Both the park and Spearfish itself were very nice with plenty of shopping and restaurant options as well as numerous outdoor activities to explore. We’d definitely stay here again both in the area and at the park. This would be a good place to stay for the summer!