The Mandan, Hidatsas, and Arikaras Indians lived in this area from 1200 AD until the 1800’s within communities of 300 to 2000 or more residents. A Mandan village, now known as On-A-Slant Village was located inside the Fort Abraham Lincoln state park and just a short distance from the campground. This particular village was settled in the 1500’s and occupied for at least 200 years before being decimated by a smallpox epidemic that killed about 80% of the inhabitants. Survivors of the epidemic moved further north. Lewis and Clark camped across the Missouri river from this village on October 20, 1804, and again on August 18, 1806. They recorded that the settlement was in ruins and had been abandoned for at least 25 years. We paid for a ranger guided tour of the village and it was well worth it as we go to tour two earthlodges closed to self-guided tours as well as gaining additional knowledge about life for the Indians in this area.

Fort Abraham Lincoln Infantry Post

In June 1872, on a bluff above the location where the Mandan tribe had established their village, a military post named Fort McKeen was built by two companies of the 6th U.S. Infantry under Lt. Col. Daniel Huston, Jr. The location offered sweeping views of the surrounding landscape. In preparation for the Northern Pacific Railroad to lay its track to the west through the Missouri River basin, the military dispatched these companies of Infantry to the area to provide protection for the survey and construction crews. The name Fort McKeen was short-lived; the designation was changed to Fort Abraham Lincoln on November 19, 1872. In 1873 Congress authorized the addition of a cavalry post and its construction was mostly completed the same year.

Fort Abraham Lincoln

By 1874, Fort Abraham Lincoln housed three companies of the 6th and 17th Infantries and six companies of the 7th Cavalry. With a total complement of about 650 men, the fort was among the largest and most important forts on the Northern Plains.

Lt. Colonel George Armstrong Custer was the first commander of the enlarged fort and served here from 1873 until his death at the Battle of the Little Big Horn in 1876. Upon completion of the railroad to Montana, Fort Abraham Lincoln had fulfilled its primary purpose. Consequently, the fort gradually declined in importance and in 1891 it was decommissioned. In its heyday, the fort encompassed 78 separate buildings. All of the original buildings were dismantled by area settlers and the materials were used in the construction of homes and farm buildings.

Today, due to past efforts by the Fort Abraham Lincoln Foundation, reconstructions of the Commanding Officer’s Quarters, Central Barracks, Granary, Commissary, and Stables now stand on the site.

Lewis and Clark Winter 1804-1805 Quarters

In 1803 President Thomas Jefferson picked Meriwether Lewis to lead an expedition through the Northwest. His instructions to Lewis were to explore the Missouri River and others all the way to the Pacific Ocean to find the most direct and practical water route across the continent for the purpose of commerce. In the summer of 1803, Lewis invited William Clark to join the expedition and share the command. In the Fall of 1803 they begin to prepare the men for the expedition.

After leaving Missouri in May 1804, Lewis and Clark made it to the Washburn, ND area by October where they meet Mandan and Hidatsa Indians. They decide to build Fort Mandan across the river from the main village and stay for the winter. There they meet Toussaint Charbonneau, a French-Canadian fur trapper who is hired as an interpreter. Toussaint’s wife, Sacagawea, a Shoshone Indian, is to be instrumental in the trek across the country to the Pacific ocean.

In Washburn, ND there is a great interpretive center with lots of information about the expedition’s time in the area and their experiences with the Indians there. We really enjoyed spending a few hours there learning more about this part of their journey.

Park Review – Abraham Lincoln State Park

Rating: 
Location:  Mandan, ND
Type: State Park
Check-in/Check-out times: 4:00/3:00
Site Quality / Amenities: Roads are asphalt but pads are gravel. Each site has a fire pit and a picnic table. Some sites share water with an adjacent site. To make matters worse, many of the pull-thru sites are actually two sites which not only results in awkward and distant hookups but could result in having to back into a semicircular pull thru site. I’d suggest picking a pull through that is a single site or picking a back-in site. Site 72 which we stayed in was a single back-in site with it’s own water. None of the sites have sewer and some sites are primitive.
Access: From Interstate 94 the park is about 12 miles away on ND-1806 in Mandan, just west of Bismark.
Staff: Staff were friendly and helpful including those that provided for a fee tours of the Mandan Indian village and of Custer’s home in the fort.
Cellular/WiFi: There is no WiFi at the campsites and both Verizon and AT&T were usually good with slower speeds (<5Mbps) although there were periods where one worked and the other did not.
Restaurants: Peacock Alley – Mostly upscale pub fare in a historic location. Food and service were both a bit lacking and prices were high for what we got. Olive Garden – Over the last couple of years we’ve stopped several times at different Olive Garden locations. Although once a favorite, their food, and at times service, has gone down hill. At first we thought this was location specific, but it’s looking like it’s a bigger problem than that.
Nearby parks: We didn’t look at any nearby parks.
What we liked: Lots of historical significance within the park. The park is open with lots of trees and grassy areas.
What we didn’t like: See site quality about shared sites. While this might be great if you want a buddy site, it could be quite awkward if you don’t know the people you are sharing a site with, and might be unworkable in some circumstances. No sewer connections although there is a small dump station.
Verdict: This park has enough going for it that we would stay here again but only if we could reserve a single site.

The town of Medora located in the western central part of North Dakota, was named after Medora von Hoffman, the wife of a prominent French nobleman and financier named Marquis de Mores. The Marquis de Mores was an influential figure in the founding of the town and played a significant role in the history of the region.

In the late 1800s, the Marquis de Mores established the town of Medora as a hub for his various business endeavors, which included ranching and meatpacking. He saw the potential of the region’s ranching industry and believed that he could create a successful meatpacking operation in the area.

While the Marquis de Mores’ business ventures in the area faced challenges and ultimately were not as successful as he had hoped, the town of Medora endured and evolved. Today, it serves as a gateway to Theodore Roosevelt National Park and is a popular tourist destination known for its Western charm, history, and cultural attractions. Only about 100 people live in the town full time but during the summer tourist season the population can grow much larger.

The town has historical significance related to Theodore Roosevelt’s time in the area. Roosevelt, who would become the 26th President of the United States, had a ranch near Medora, known as the Elkhorn Ranch, where he spent a considerable amount of time. His experiences in the Badlands played a role in shaping his conservation and environmental policies later in life as president.

Medora Musical

The Medora Musical is a popular outdoor musical performance that has been a staple of the region’s entertainment and tourism offerings since 1965. This performance is held during the summer months, from early June to early September at the Burning Hills Amphitheater, an outdoor theater nestled in the picturesque Badlands landscape. The amphitheater provides a unique and scenic backdrop for the musical’s performances.

The musical is a lively and colorful production that combines various elements such as singing, dancing, comedy, and dramatic storytelling. It often celebrates the spirit of the American West and the history of the region, incorporating themes related to cowboys, pioneers, Native American culture, and Theodore Roosevelt, who spent time in the Badlands and played a significant role in its conservation. The cast of the Medora Musical typically includes a mix of professional performers and local talent. One of the unique aspects of the Medora Musical is its audience interaction. Spectators are often encouraged to participate in certain segments of the show, fostering a lively and engaging atmosphere.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park

Theodore Roosevelt National Park consists of three separate units: the North Unit, the South Unit, and the Elkhorn Ranch Unit. The park is named in honor of Theodore Roosevelt, who was a strong advocate for conservation and played a significant role in the preservation of natural landscapes.

The South Unit is the most popular and accessible part of the park. It features a loop drive (although part of the loop was closed while we were there for road construction) that offers stunning views of the rugged badlands, grasslands, and the meandering Little Missouri River. Visitors can enjoy hiking trails, picnicking areas, and opportunities for wildlife viewing. The Painted Canyon Visitor Center, located near the entrance of the South Unit, provides information and exhibits about the park’s natural and cultural history. The South Unit and the Painted Canyon Visitor center were the only places we had an opportunity to visit during our week long stay in the area.

The North Unit is characterized by rugged terrain, deep canyons, and scenic vistas. It is known for its striking badlands formations, which include eroded rock formations, buttes, and colorful layers of sedimentary rock. Wildlife is abundant in this area, with bison, elk, bighorn sheep, deer, and various bird species calling it home. This area is a bit more remote and less visited than the South Unit.

The Elkhorn Ranch Unit is a remote area that preserves the location of Theodore Roosevelt’s ranch, known as the Elkhorn Ranch. Roosevelt spent a considerable amount of time there and credited his experiences in North Dakota with shaping his conservation views. The Elkhorn Ranch Unit offers a glimpse into the landscape that inspired Roosevelt and played a role in his commitment to conservation.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park is not only a testament to the natural beauty of the North Dakota badlands but also a tribute to one of America’s most influential conservationists. It serves as a reminder of the importance of preserving and protecting natural landscapes for future generations.

Park Review – Medora Campground

Rating: 
Location:  Medora, ND
Type: Commercial Park
Check-in/Check-out times: 2:00/11:00
Site Quality / Amenities: The park consists of dirt roads and pads. Each site has a picnic table and a grill. Spacing between sites is about as close as you can get. The park does not have a swimming pool but the Medora city pool is just outside the park boundary.
Access: Easy access from Interstate 94. You can avoid going through the town of Medora (which can be congested with tourists) by taking exit 24 on the west side of town.
Staff: Staff was friendly and helpful. Many businesses in town, including the campground, are run by the Medora Foundation. They bring in summer workers from all over the world so communication can be difficult at times but the people and their stories can be interesting. That said, the staff along with costs contribute to the area feeling a bit like Disneyland rather than a national park area. Many things can be quite expensive here although Diesel was a bit below what we had seen in other places in South Dakota and propane at the park was the cheapest we have paid in several years at $2.50 per gallon.
Cellular/WiFi: Both AT&T and Verizon were pretty good most of the time with download speeds as fast as 115 Mbps.
Restaurants: Badlands Pizza Parlor – Ended up being better than we expected but it was still a bit “institutional”. Boots Bar & Grill – We both got a Hamburger and they were above average. Unfortunately, due to wood floors and a lot of small kids in the restaurant, it was uncomfortably loud.
Nearby parks: Red Trail Camp Grounds – Smaller park but doesn’t look any better than the Medora Campground. Boots Campground – Interesting looking very small out of town park but reviews indicate small sites that might be difficult to navigate. Sully Creek State Park – Electric only but water and a dump station is available in the park. Spacious sites, away from town.
What we liked: In site 606, the trees did not block satellite reception but did provide some much needed shade as daytime temperatures were close to 100 degrees several days during our stay in late July. There is a train track just outside the park but they do not honk their horns and there is minimal noise from the trains.
What we didn’t like: Although our site had enough space to park the truck partially to the side of the trailer, most sites do not allow for that. Most sites have their neighbor’s sewer connection either below or nearby the picnic table. Between trees, parked vehicles and small spacing, it can be difficult to navigate the park with larger rigs. The truck and trailer was just washed and waxed at the prior stop but after a few days both need to be cleaned again. Dust flies every time someone speeds through the park. Due to copious rain in 2023 everything was pretty green but bugs, in particular grasshoppers, were horrible.
Verdict: Been here, done that. We won’t likely ever feel a need to return. For us, 3 or 4 nights would have been enough, we stayed 10 nights.